How to test seeds for germination: 2 working methods

Even if “germination rate – 98%” is written on the package with seeds, there are always fewer real seedlings than sown seeds. What is it, the manufacturers are misleading us and deliberately overestimate the indicators? Or not? Let’s talk today about seed germination. Let’s figure out how to check seeds for germination and whether all seeds need such a check. Let’s find out whether it is worth throwing out the seeds floating in the water or is it just another myth. We will find out in what ways to increase the percentage of germination and whether it is one hundred percent. Go!

Such a different germination

Seed germination is the ability to form normally developed seedlings in a certain time at a certain temperature. It is expressed as a percentage of germinated seeds to the number of seeds sown. We affirm with absolute certainty: there is no 100% seed germination.

Even laboratory germination is about 95-99%. Yes, these are the very high rates that a seed producer can indicate on the package. And you can’t call him a deceiver: in ideal laboratory conditions, the results are really high. It is impossible to achieve an optimal microclimate at home or in a greenhouse, so the percentage here will be completely different. This is the so-called greenhouse germination, which is always lower than laboratory germination. We can check it at home. But there is also field germination of seeds. It is measured in real outdoor conditions. And this figure is usually even lower.

So testing seeds for germination is a good thing. It will allow us to understand whether we have enough seed for the planned planting or if we need to buy more. It will save our time and nerves for preparing the soil, planting and waiting for the first shoots from seeds that are not known to be similar. But do all seeds need quality testing? And if there are few of them, are they expensive or are we talking about a very valuable variety?

When germination determination is necessary

Of course, valuable and expensive seeds have to be planted without any checks. And from a dozen seeds in a bag, there is nothing to take for a sample either. In these cases, we hope for a trusted manufacturer and a declared shelf life. And just in case, we sow such seeds for seedlings early. If these seeds fail, there will be time to sow others.

But in some situations it is better to play it safe and check the sowing properties of seeds in advance.

seeds for germination

  1. The seeds were stored for several years. Agree, every gardener has the remains of seeds from past years. It’s a pity to throw it away, at the beginning of the season you hope that you will finally drop everything. But the collection of remains is multiplying every year. Of course, some crops have a long shelf life. For example, cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, or watermelons can last 8 years. Cabbage seeds remain viable for 6 years. Tomatoes and eggplants – 5 years. But the seeds of onions, parsley or celery will not survive even a year without loss of quality. However, no matter how long the shelf life is, the general rule is that the longer the seeds are stored, the worse they will emerge. Therefore, it is better not to sow old seeds without first checking for germination.
  2. Seeds are personally selected in our garden. We usually collect our seeds from a large supply. With such quantities, you will cease to respect yourself if you do not select the best ones for sowing. Moreover, there is enough material to determine germination.
  3. The seeds were shared by neighbors, relatives, acquaintances, farmers, etc. In this case, it is highly desirable not only to check the sowing properties, but also to pre-disinfect the seeds. Simply because we do not know anything about these seeds. If the quantity allows, we recommend assessing their germination before sowing.
  4. Seeds were bought in large quantities for the action. Well, what kind of person can resist promotions and sales? It’s so nice to take 5 sachets for the price of 1, even if you really only need one. It is likely that the seller reduced the price due to an expiring shelf life or storage breach. It is worth making sure in advance that the “sale” seeds will not let you down.

Seed calibration: floating doesn’t mean bad

Before moving on to methods of verifying germination, let’s say a few words about seed calibration. This is a kind of preparatory procedure that helps to immediately weed out clearly unusable copies.

When there is more than enough seed, first sort by appearance. Remove small, damaged, frail seeds. Even if something grows out of them, you still won’t get a decent harvest.

After visual selection, it is very often advised to discard the “dummies” by immersing the seeds in water or in a solution of sodium chloride. The recommendation is widespread, many do it because my grandmother taught. However, “water treatments” have several serious disadvantages.

First, if the seeds are purchased, be sure to read all the information on the bag. They can be treated with a fungicide or growth promoter. After “bathing” the seeds, all these substances will be washed off their surface.

Secondly, in modern varieties and hybrids, the seeds are soft in themselves. It was at the time of our grandmothers that the seed in a cucumber was difficult to bite, now we calmly chew them and do not think. Many seeds now do not sink in water, not because they are not viable, but because this is their structure.

There is one more thing. In order to increase the shelf life of seeds, almost all producers (both ours and foreign ones) dry the seeds to a very low moisture content. Dry seeds will float on the surface of the water – both viable and non-viable. It turns out that if the packing of the seeds is not broken, they remain dry, do not absorb moisture from the air, and there is little point in checking them in water.

So we advise you to calibrate the seeds for appearance only. And after rejection of the obviously unsuitable ones, check the remaining ones for germination. At home, this is done in two ways: by germination on a damp cloth or by trial sowing in the ground.



Farm business: soybean cultivation

Soy is one of the most popular crops in crops. It belongs to the legume family, has a high yield and grows on almost any type of soil, except for sandy ones. Soy fruits contain a large amount of vegetable protein. They have the widest application: they are used for preparing various dishes and in food production, as well as as feed for farm animals.

Soy flour is made from bean seeds, from which soy meat is in turn produced. Soybean oil (which is considered one of the best vegetable oils) and soy milk (white seeds are used for this) are obtained from the seeds. Soya liquid sauce is prepared from fermented soy. Soybean meal is produced from pressed beans.

Demand for soybeans is consistently high. It costs much more than wheat and is much less prone to price fluctuations. The need for soybeans and products of its processing is increasing every year with an increase in poultry meat production and developing livestock and pig breeding. For all these reasons, soybean cultivation is a profitable and highly profitable business. However, as in any other direction, there are certain features that must be taken into account.

The subtleties of soybean cultivation

The main phases of soybean growth include germination (from sowing to seedlings), seedlings (from the appearance of cotyledons to the blooming of primordial leaves), the formation of the first triple leaf, branching, the appearance of buds, flowering, the formation of beans, seed filling and ripening. Under favorable conditions, soybean seedlings can be seen already on the 6-9th day after sowing. During the filling of seeds, soybean no longer grows, and during the ripening of beans, plants discard leaves. In most varieties, ripened beans do not crack, and the plants themselves do not lie, which facilitates harvesting.

For some reason, it is widely believed that soy is an unpretentious plant. In fact, it is a light-loving and heat-demanding culture. With a lack of lighting, the stems of the plant and leaf cuttings lengthen, which prevents the formation of side shoots and beans or even the fall of previously formed ovaries in the lower part of the plant. The greatest heat demand is in the flowering and fruit formation phases. The optimum air temperature during this period is 21-22 ° C. At temperatures from 14 ° C and below, the plant does not grow and does not develop. At the beginning and end of the growing season, the need for heat is much lower. Moreover, at this time, plants even relatively calmly tolerate frosts to –2-3.5 ° С.

In addition to light and heat, soy needs a lot of moisture, but this need also depends on the period of plant growth. In the initial period of growth, before the appearance of flowers, soy is relatively drought-resistant, although a lack of moisture can somewhat negatively affect the productivity of plants and the development of lower beans.

But with a lack of moisture during flowering, the formation of ovaries and pouring seeds into large volumes of the crop, you should not count. With the intensive development of green mass, the area of ​​the evaporating surface of the plant increases, so with the onset of flowering, moisture consumption also increases. During flowering and the formation of beans, soybeans are also demanding on air humidity. At low humidity during this period, new ones do not form and existing flowers and beans are discarded.

Experts advise growing soybeans on weed-free fields with optimal reserves of nutrients and moisture. Do not forget that for a good harvest, this plant needs two to three times more nutrients than grain crops. This means that the soil for growing soybeans must be fertile and cultivated, otherwise you can not do without the additional cost of applying a large amount of fertilizer. There are no particular preferences for soil types, but neutral or slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5), well-permeable soil rich in phosphorus, humus and calcium is best suited.

Like all legumes, soy is a valuable crop in crop rotation. It can be sown in the fields where cereals (best of all, winter wheat), corn, sugar beets, potatoes, and perennial grasses were grown before that. Other legumes, perennial legumes, cabbage and sunflowers are unsuitable as precursors because of the danger of the spread of bacteriosis and other diseases.

Some crops susceptible to sclerotinosis (for example, rapeseed, soybeans, sunflowers) should not exceed 33% in crop rotation. After soybean, it is recommended to sow the field with winter wheat, other crops, corn, rape, fodder and vegetables. Take into account that late harvesting in some regions of our country does not allow winter crops to be grown after soy. Soya greatly depletes the soil with nutrients, so it must be borne in mind that it is recommended to return soya to its original place no earlier than two years later. Thus, you will need to regularly look for new sown areas for each year.

Soybean varieties differ not only in requirements for agroclimatic and environmental conditions, but also in purpose. For example, there are varieties intended for oil-feed use or food, oriented to the production of soy proteins. It is also necessary to take into account the purchase price, composition, ratio of the main grain ingredients and the yield of a particular variety. Please note: in our country it is forbidden to grow genetically modified soybeans, although abroad it has become very widespread due to the fact that this culture is not so demanding and cheaper than ordinary soybeans.

Proper preparation of the soybean field

A field intended for sowing must be prepared in advance. First, in the fall, one or two husks are produced to a depth of 8-10 cm and fertilizers are applied for plowing. If crops were previously grown on this field, fertilizers are applied to a depth of 22-25 cm, and if corn is grown to a depth of 25-30 cm. Harrowing is carried out in early spring with heavy, medium or light harrows across or at an angle to the direction of plowing.

In principle, presowing cultivation of the field is not much different from cultivating the soil for other leguminous crops. Its main goal is the destruction of weed seedlings and the preservation of moisture. If the field is not leveled in autumn, if it is clogged with weeds or carrion, during long, cold winters, in the spring they cultivate to a depth of 6-8 cm, followed by digging. It allows you to increase the temperature of the seed layer by a couple of degrees and stimulates the germination of weeds, which are then removed.

For pre-sowing cultivation, which is carried out to a depth of 4-5 cm across or at an angle in the direction of the previous cultivation, steam or beet cultivators with flat-cut legs will be required. The field for sowing should be as flat as possible and without lumps. This is due to the fact that soybeans are quite low. An uneven surface makes it difficult to harvest. The height of the ridges and the depth of the furrows should not be more than four centimeters.

After sowing, soil herbicides are introduced to seedlings using harrows to a depth of at least three centimeters or ring-spur rollers (in this case, the efficiency of nitrogen-fixing bacteria increases). If there are rhizome and rootstock weeds on the field, then it is recommended not to carry out pre-sowing treatment, but to wait for the wheat grass to grow to 10-15 cm and to sow. Then, 3-4 after sowing, before soybean shoots appear, the fields are treated with a continuous round herbicide. Fertilizer consumption is 10-20 kg / ha of nitrogen, 15-30 kg / ha of phosphorus and 25-60 kg / ha of potassium.

Seeds must be etched before sowing, and immediately when sown, they are inoculated with nodule bacteria (rhizotorfin). Conventional etching machines are not suitable for inoculating soybean seeds, since the particles of rizotorfin are quite large and do not pass through the nozzle and filters of conventional equipment, and rizotorfin in liquid form is more difficult to use. Some farmers use a concrete mixer for this, others inoculate in the back of a truck, followed by breaking up the formed lumps in the seeder. The flow rate of the working solution is about 70-80 liters per 1 ton.

Some farmers do not use rhizotorfin, and before planting, they add ammonium nitrate to the soil. On the one hand, this increases the cost of production, but allows for good yield.

Sowing is carried out in the third decade of April – the first and second decades of May when the soil is heated to a temperature of 10-15 ° C. First, late-ripening varieties are sown, and only at the end are early ripening varieties. Seeds are sown to a depth of 450-700 mm. The row spacing is 0.4-0.6 m. The seeding rate depends on the variety of plants, the method of sowing and weed control. The average sowing density is 35-40 seeds per meter. With an increase in row spacing, the seeding rate also increases by 10-20%.

How to collect and store soy

After the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to regularly destroy weed plants and carry out cultivation of row-spacings. After the appearance of 5-6 true leaves, the plants begin to bloom. At this stage, nitrophoska (mineral nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer) is introduced into the soil, abundantly watered and covered with earth. The ripening period ranges from 85 to 245 days, depending on the variety and climatic conditions of the growing region.

For example, early soybean varieties ripen by the end of July, and later by October. Harvested after falling leaves and the acquisition of beans grayish color. Before digging the plot, the stems of the plant are pulled out, and the fallen leaves are buried in the ground to accelerate their decay. Before threshing, the beans are laid out in the sun, where they open or hatch, then they are screened and poured into bags. For storage of soybeans, you can use ordinary arochniki.

The main thing is that the humidity level in it does not exceed 14-15% (optimal – 12%). Too wet soybeans can be dried using special equipment, but this is too expensive a process that significantly increases the cost of finished products.

Productivity depends on the region, on the variety and on weather conditions. The average yield without irrigation is 10 centners per hectare, and with irrigation – 25 c / ha. The highest yields in most regions are given by early varieties.

Experienced farmers know that sowing and growing soy is not the most difficult thing. It is much more difficult to harvest the crop. For this, harvesters are used (usually Don). Although the soybean crop needs to be harvested in a short time (for some varieties it is only 3-5 days), otherwise the beans will crack and crumble to the ground, but it is very difficult to do this even if there is a sufficient amount of equipment.

One combine can harvest a maximum of 20 hectares per day, provided that the fields are well-cultivated and without weeds. But in fact, this indicator is much less – about 5 hectares. And even in this case, crop losses are very significant. During harvesting, it is necessary to ensure that the soy stalks do not fall into the drum of the combine, otherwise the risk of breakage is high.

To grow soybeans, you need the following equipment:

  • pneumatic seeder (you can use seeders for sunflower, grain or beets),
  • cultivator,
  • equipment for inoculation and harrowing,
  • harvesters.

The profitability of this business is 25%. To increase the profitability of the business, experts advise buying an extruder for the production of soya “meat”. This is an inexpensive and fairly compact equipment that allows the processing of beans. The product yield is up to 25 tons per 30 tons of feedstock.



Amaranth: Expert opinion of US scientists

Today is not an ordinary article. This is a collection of excerpts from official research scientists from the United States of America. They were conducted by specialists from the Center for Alternative Plants and Products of Animal Origin (University of Minnesota) and the 2nd Division of Agronomy and Soil Science of the College of Agricultural Sciences (University of Wisconsin) a few years ago.

This data of foreign researchers is another official and competent confirmation of the unusual properties of this wonderful plant. Each section of the article presents brief conclusions from US researchers.

Historical facts

Amaranth, an ancient culture prevalent on the American continent. Cereal amaranths were important in different parts of the world and at different times for several thousand years.

The largest cultivation area was at the height of the Aztec civilization in Mexico in the 1400s. The last two centuries, grain amaranth has been grown in various places on the planet, including:

• Mexico;

• Central American countries;

• India;

• Nepal;

• China;

• and East Africa.

Amaranth studies by US agronomists began in the 1970s. Then several thousand acres of amaranth were grown in the United States for commercial use (sales of the products — seeds, oil, flour, leaves). Amaranth markets were not yet very stable, but evolved every year. Crop area increased in the 1980s.

Today, novice producers are encouraged to start with a few acres, and contracts for the sale of the future crop should be made even before sowing.

Scientists from the United States of America identify several areas of application for this plant and the products derived from it.

Food use

Grain amaranth is used for food. The most common application is to grind grain into flour for cooking:

• bread and pastries;

• noodles;


• and other flour-based foods.

Also from the grain of amaranth you can cook popcorn. Currently, there are several dozen products on the basis of amaranth grain on the US market.

One of the reasons that has recently caused an interest in amaranth is its beneficial nutritional properties – the grain contains:

• from 12 to 17% protein;

• lysine, an essential amino acid;

• vitamins and trace elements.

In addition, the grain is characterized by a high fiber content and a low content of saturated fat, which contributes to its use in the market of healthy food. Studies conducted on laboratory animals have shown that amaranth grain, used for food, can significantly reduce the amount of bad cholesterol in the body.

Using in animal husbandry

Amaranth is used relatively often in animal husbandry, being an excellent animal feed. For example, research conducted in Minnesota (USA) showed how high the potential of this plant is as animal feed.

In addition, similar studies were conducted at pilot sites in Iowa.

As a result, it was found that in regions where it is too dry for growing corn, amaranth grain may become a suitable silage alternative, but research in this area will still be conducted.

Amaranth features

In the US, it is common to grow two species of this plant:

• Amaranthus cruentus;

• Amaranthus hypochondriacus.

Grain amaranths are different species with different characteristics, and did not turn into weeds, where they were grown, but retained their cultural characteristics. Amaranth grain grown in Arlington, Wisconsin contained between 16.6 and 17.5% protein.

Grain amaranths have large colored seed heads and can produce more than 900 kilograms of grain per hectare. At least, it is these indicators of yield recorded in the cultivation of amaranth in the Midwest. However, researchers note that part of the grain is still lost at harvest.

Amaranth cereal plants in the mature state reach 1.5-2 meters. They are dicotyledonous (broad-leaved) plants with thick, tough stems like sunflowers. Tiny, lens-shaped seeds have a diameter of one millimeter and usually from white to cream color.

Environmental requirements and cultivation

Also, scientists have studied in detail the conditions under which the best yield of amaranth can be achieved. And described the basic requirements for climate. Amaranth has been found to be drought tolerant, but subject to the presence of sufficient moisture to ripen the crop. Amaranth perfectly responds to constant, intense sunlight, direct sunlight and rather high temperatures.

Now let’s take a closer look at exactly how the preparation, planting and harvesting should be carried out. The seeds are very small, it is important that they are sufficiently solid. Field preparation for sowing can be performed using a field cultivator or disc equipment. This is followed by cultivation, using a harrow with grooves and seeding, preferably using a planter with pressure discs.

Seeds should be planted no more than 12 millimeters into the ground, depending on the texture of the soil and the surface moisture during planting. When choosing a field for sowing, heavy textured soils should be avoided. Sow amaranth in the United States begin in late May or early June, when the soil temperature is at least 18 degrees Celsius. And after the land was treated against the growth of the first weeds.

Accurate, optimal seed volumes have not been established, however, up to about 1.8 kilograms of seeds per hectare should be used. The distance between the rows depends on the equipment. The seeder should be ideal for small amaranth seeds. Traditional grain planters are not recommended due to problems with sowing speed control and sowing depth, but they can be used if amaranth seeds are diluted with “carrier”, for example, corn.


The harvest is the most important stage in the production of grain. Without compliance with certain, you can lose or damage most of the seeds. In particular, we are talking about the use of special reapers, which are designed for cutting amaranth stems and knocking out small grains of this plant. Studies conducted by University specialists during 12 years of demonstration that the yield of up to 18 centners per hectare is quite real! Naturally, if the site for this was previously prepared.

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Best Vegetables to Plant in Your Organic Garden

Eat and enjoy these tasty vegetables and herbs from your kitchen garden

Homegrown vegetables and herbs bring fresh flavors to summertime meals. Got a late start on your garden this year? Many of the following easy-to-grow varieties can be sown throughout the growing season. You can enjoy these herbs and vegetables freshly picked from the garden or cook them up using some of our recipes. Either way you know you’ll be getting an abundance of nutrients to keep you happy and healthy.

Bush Beans

Why we love them: Green beans are a healthy summer favorite, both for their fresh crunch and flavor. They also add a bright shot of green to your dinner plate.

What you get: Green beans provide a bounty of nutrients: vitamins A, C and K, manganese, potassium, folate and iron, as well as fiber.

In your garden: Plant your bean seeds in well-drained soil where they’ll receive full sun. Sow seeds every few weeks to enjoy a continual harvest through the summer.



Why we love them:Beets are an earthy, sweet treat. And don’t forget to eat the beet greens too-baby ones are delicious raw in a salad; cook more mature ones as you would chard or kale.

What you get: 1/2 cup of cooked beets has a mere 29 calories but boasts 2 grams of fiber and provides 19 percent of the daily value for folate, a B vitamin needed for the growth of healthy new cells. Beets’ beautiful color comes from betanin, a phytochemical that’s thought to bolster immunity.

In your garden: You can plant your beets as soon as your soil can be worked in the spring.



Why we love them: Carrots are a perennial favorite-delicious raw or cooked, and they can be prepared in a variety of ways.

What you get: The pigment that makes carrots orange-beta carotene-is the same compound the body converts to vitamin A, a vitamin essential for vision, healthy skin and the immune system.

In your garden: Plant carrots as soon as the soil can be worked. They thrive in fertile sandy loam.


Why we love them: Cucumbers are a tasty addition to salads, add crunch to your crudit‚s plate and even taste good cooked.

What you get: While the cucumber isn’t known as a nutrition powerhouse, it does provide refreshment: at 95 percent water content, a cup of cucumber slices is nearly as thirst-quenching as a glass of water.

In your garden: Give your cucumber plants generous amounts of organic matter and good fertilization and they will respond with lots of crunchy cucumbers; harvest them regularly to increase production.


Gourmet Lettuce Mix

Why we love them: Lettuce is easy to grow, making it a great choice for container gardening. This mix of greens tastes great in a salad or on a sandwich.

What you get: Although nutrients differ with each variety of lettuce, leafy greens are a great start to any meal, supplying vitamins A, C, K and folate.

In your garden: Lettuce thrives in cooler weather so plant it in the spring and fall, sowing every few weeks for a continuous harvest.


Snap Peas

Why we love them: These sweet peas with edible pods make a great snack on their own, and are just as welcome cooked up into a satisfying side dish.

What you get: With one-third of your daily value of vitamin C and 3 grams of fiber in every cup, these vegetables are a healthy choice.

In your garden: Snap peas are hardy legumes that germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40øF, but don’t do so well in hot and dry weather. Plant your peas so that they can mature as early as your planting schedule allows and sow more seeds when cooler fall days return.


Why we love them: These spicy, crunchy globes are packed with flavor. And radishes are more versatile than you may think: add them to a salad or temper their heat by cooking them in your favorite veggie stir-fry.

What you get: Bonus! One radish has just 1 calorie.

In your garden: Even if you don’t have a green thumb, radishes are easy to grow in containers and gardens; spring radish varieties are often ready in just three weeks and are more mild in flavor-hotter summer soil produces spicier radishes.


Mild Mustard Salad Mix

Why we love them: Peppery and spicy mustard greens, like mizuna and pac choi, add great zing to salads. Try them when your recipe calls for Asian salad mix.

What you get: Dark leafy greens are particularly rich in vitamins A, C and K. Mustard greens are also an excellent source of folate, important for women of child-bearing age.

In your garden: You can sow salad greens in your garden from early spring to midsummer.



Why we love it: No other herb epitomizes the taste of summer like basil. Whirl up a batch of pesto or sprinkle basil on your favorite pasta dish.

In your garden: Plant basil in rich, moist soil where it can enjoy full sun. Sow your basil every few weeks for continual harvest.



Why we love it: With both the leaves and seeds used for seasoning, dill is a very versatile herb. The leaves are soft and sweet, whereas the seeds have a sweet and citrusy taste that is slightly bitter.

In your garden: The herb can be used both fresh and dried. Plant your dill seeds in warmer temperatures: it thrives in soil around 75 to 80øF.



Why we love it: Cilantro is a flavorful herb prominent in Mexican and Southeast Asian cookery. Try it as an alternative to basil in pesto to top fish or stir it into your favorite salsa recipe. The stems are as flavorful as the leaves-just discard any that are tough.

In your garden: Plant cilantro early in the season and sow seeds regularly for a continued harvest.



Why we love it: Often parsley is used as a garnish, leaving its delicious flavor underappreciated. Not only does it have a great aromatic quality, but parsley also contains vitamins A and C.

In your garden: Plant parsley in fertile soil with good amounts of organic matter and moisture.



Why we love it: Best known as a background flavoring for stews and soups, thyme is one of the most versatile herbs. Although typically paired with savory robust foods, such as red meat, poultry and root vegetables, it is also good with apples and pears.

In your garden: Grow thyme in an area that will receive full sunlight.

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Article Source: Eating Well

7 Tips to Improve Your Organic Gardening Skills

Tip # 1: Don’t Re-use Water with Chemicals

When watering plants use recycled water, but avoid re-using water from sources such as baths, washing machines, or dishwashing. These water sources may contain harmful chemicals that can be absorbed into your vegetables such as nitrates and phosphates. This water may even contain pathogens that could harm you or your plants.

Tip # 2: Rotate Your Crops

You will need to rotate the plants on a regular basis when you have an indoor organic garden. Plants need to get light from all directions in order to grow properly. If they are not rotated, plants will bend toward a light source, which can actually cause them to produce less fruits and vegetables, than they would have if they had been rotated.

Tip # 3: Protect Them Seeds

Keep your seeds warm and humid. Most seeds are healthy at a temperature of about seventy degrees. Place your pots next to a heating vent or install an additional heater if needed. You can cover your pots with plastic films so that the seeds can keep their humidity and warmth.

Tip # 4: Train Your Plants

Are you busy with your organic garden? Remember, before you replant your flowers or vegetables outside in cooler weather, you need to get them ready for the change in temperature and light! For a few weeks, move your plants to a colder spot with no light for a few hours. Gradually increase the amount of time you leave your plants in the cold. After a few weeks, your plants should be ready for the cooler outdoors.

Tip # 5: Give Them the Time They Deserve

Tend to your garden a few steps at a time. A garden requires ongoing maintenance, and becomes a big time drain if you let things pile up until the weekend. Stop by the garden for a few minutes each day and deadhead some flowers while you’re waiting for dinner to cook or pull a few weeds while watching the kids play.

Tip # 6: Plant Your Own Food

Plant ornamental, edible plants as part of your regular yard landscaping. Good plants to start with include rosemary, thyme varieties, sages, oregano and basil. These all look great mixed with perennials, and they will supply you with enough that you won’t need to purchase them anymore – herbs are expensive at the supermarket.

Tip # 7: Basket is Your Friend

When it’s harvest time, you should utilize a basket that you put laundry in to carry your veggies. This laundry basket can be used as a type of strainer for all your produce. Doing this allows you to both rinse and drain your fresh produce.

An organic garden right in your home is a great thing to have. You’ll love the fresh, organic produce that you pull right out of your back yard, for free! Apply the tips from this article now, to stop relying on farmers, who are only out to make a quick buck. Start enjoying quality produce, right from your own home.

The Basic Methods of Organic Farming

Natural farming is done to launch nutrients to the crops for enhanced lasting production in a green and pollution-free atmosphere. It aims to generate plant with a high nutritional worth. There are numerous methods through which organic farming is practiced are as follows:

1. Crop Variety

Now a days a brand-new technique has entered image which is called -Polyculture- where a variety of plants can be grown simultaneously just to meet the raising need of plants. Unlike the ancient technique which was -Monoculture- in which just one kind of crop was grown in a particular place.

2. Soil Administration

After the farming of plants, the dirt sheds its nutrients and its high quality depletes. Organic agriculture initiates the use of natural ways to increase the wellness of soil. It focuses on the use of bacteria that exists in pet waste which assists in making the dirt nutrients extra productive to improve the soil.

3. Weed Monitoring

-Weed-, is the undesirable plant that expands in farming fields. Organic farming pressurizes on reducing the weed as opposed to removing it totally.

4. Managing other microorganisms

There are both useful as well as harmful organisms in the farming farm which impact the area. The development of such organisms needs to be managed to protect the soil as well as the crops. This can be done by the use herbicides and also pesticides which contain less chemicals or are natural. Likewise, correct sanitization of the whole ranch must be preserved to manage other organisms.

5. Livestock

Organic farming initiates domestic pets make use of to enhance the sustainability of the farm.

6. Genetic Engineering

Genetic engineering is kept away from this sort of agricultural established because natural farming concentrates on making use of all-natural ways as well as discourages crafted pets and also plants.

7 Great Ideas for Your Organic Gardening Woes

Idea # 1: Make Full Use of Containers

Take care of your containers. You do not have to spend a lot of money on containers: you can reuse common items as pots. Make sure you clean your containers thoroughly and disinfect them to avoid diseases. Drill a few holes in the bottom so that the extra water can be drained.

Idea # 2: Seed Sprout Are Stronger

When your seeds sprout, they will not be in need of the warmth they needed to germinate. Sprouting plants can be removed from the heat source. Take off any plastic that is on the containers to keep away from warmth and moisture. Watch your seeds closely to know how to go about this.

Idea # 3: Help Mother Nature a Little

While Mother Nature will eventually do the work needed to create compost from a backyard pile, even if it is not actively tended, you can give her a helping hand by adding compost starter to the mix. Compost starters, available from the garden centers, add microorganisms to the soil that help speed up the decay process.

Idea # 4: Earthworms are Great!

Embrace earthworms in the organic garden! Earthworms are an organic gardener’s best friend. Through tunneling and their nitrogen-rich castings, they can help to aerate the soil. This improves the amount of oxygen that gets to a plant’s roots, improves water retention capacity, and keeps the soil loose and workable. They actually raise much-needed minerals from the garden’s subsoil to the topsoil, where plants can get the greatest benefit. These worms also break up hardpan soil, which is detrimental to root growth.

Idea # 5: Organic Mulch FTW!

To conserve water when you’re gardening, be sure to use three inches of organic mulch. The mulch will help your plants to absorb the water slowly over time, allowing you to use less water than you normally would. Many natural materials make great mulch, including pine needles and many types of leaves.

Idea # 6: Healthy Fruits have Colorful Flowers

Blend flowering fruit shrubs into your regular landscape. Don’t have a separate area to turn into a garden? Elderberries, blueberries and currants have pretty flowers in springtime and look great in the fall as well. The side benefit of these landscape-enhancing plants is all the fruit they produce for you to enjoy.

Idea # 7: Use Diatomaceous Earth as Pesticide

If you are experiencing a problem with slugs or other insects, a wonderful organic contact pesticide is diatomaceous earth. You can buy this at most garden centers, and it comes in a white powder form. It is an abrasive material that will kill the critters by damaging the skin of the slugs and joints of the insects.

After reading through all of that, do you still see organic gardening in the same way? Do you now see that it is so much more than a pesticide-free garden? The work involved is not too bad, but it will take effort and patience to grow an organic garden of your own.